“It was a bold man that first ate on oyster” is a perspective typically attributed to the 18th-century satirist Jonathan Swift (although older variants of the quote can be found). It’s probable that early humans learned to eat shellfish by watching seabirds smash them by dropping them onto rocks and then gorge on the contents. It’s an easy source of high-quality protein that didn’t require hunting down animals that flee or competing with apex predators. No wonder our species evolved to favor living near coastlines!
That said, one’s first encounter with raw shellfish is not for the fainthearted, and many people avoid raw oysters simply on the unfounded expectation that they’ll be slimy or rubbery. This reporter was long among the unenlightened; I put off trying them until a sojourn on an island in Chesapeake Bay for my 40th birthday weekend. Once introduced, I became an instant convert.
Oysters, in fact, have a satisfying meaty, chewy texture and flavors that, while varying based on the mineral makeup of their source waters, combine umami with the taste of the sea: a little iodine, a little salt. A squeeze of lemon or a dollop of cocktail sauce on them is nice, but they’re also succulent just slurped down straight.
For most of human history, they were a food of the common people living near the sea, cheap and abundant. Only in post-industrial times have they become a luxury item due to overfishing and pollution of their habitats. If you live a little further inland, such as the Hudson Valley, oysters are still available in fresh condition, but pricey enough to make feasting on them a special occasion.
So, it’s a joy to be able to announce the opening of a new eatery in our region whose main selling point is its raw bar, in a venue with a long history as a fine dining destination. The Oyster and Clam Bar at the Bruynswick Inn started serving on January 12, and the place is hopping already. HV1 paid a visit and sampled a variety of offerings. We liked it all very much, and would go back for the New England clam chowder by itself.
Located at 2162 Bruynswick Road, at the junction of Hoagerburgh and Red Mills Roads, the restaurant is technically in Wallkill in the Town of Shawangunk, though the downtowns of Gardiner and Wallkill are about equidistant. Its rural setting boasts a fine view of the Shawangunk cliffs, Gertrude’s Nose being the dominant nearby geological feature. The new owners’ renovations of the 19th-century building and environs have capitalized on the beauty of the property: A handsome new bluestone patio and pergola should prove popular for outdoor dining and events once the weather warms, and patrons were already gathering around a welcoming firepit when we visited in midafternoon last Saturday.
Until recently, the Bruynswick Inn was known mainly as a French restaurant, presided over for more than 20 years by John Baudelaire, according to new manager/co-owner Michelle Kelly. “I grew up right up the street. My parents would come here for dinner,” she recalls. Kelly shares photos from a local history book of Ester Antonson, who operated a grocery store in the building before it became a seafood restaurant in the mid-20th century. “People told me it was a brothel once, but I don’t know what year that was.”
The building’s entryway and interior now look refreshed and inviting, redecorated in a rustic modern style with plenty of stonework. The three-sided bar has been extended. There’s a working fireplace in the main dining area, and a second dining room with plenty of windows in the north wing of the building.
Kelly was brought on board to run the new restaurant in May 2022 by a silent partner who bought the building in 2019, just before the pandemic. “It was something I wanted to do all my life, so I jumped right in,” she says. She originally learned to cook when she got her first job at the age of 17 at nearby Indian Springs Camp, serving “80 people three times a day.” Desserts became her specialty, and the Baked Apple Goodie she learned to make from her mentor, Cele Spadola, is one of the regular offerings at the Oyster and Clam Bar. She also did “front of the house” work at many local restaurants over the years, including a decade at the Lakeview House on Orange Lake.
The Oyster and Clam Bar’s head chef is Chris Morelli, working with line cook Joe O’Bryan, and Michelin-starred mixologist Jason Kohn is managing the bar and curating the impressive cocktail list, which features a seasonal shandy (currently pear). Wine selections are broad and eclectic, but spotlight local wines from Whitecliff, Bruynswick, Benmarl and Christopher Jacobs. The bar has six beers on tap, including Hudson Valley microbrews Frog Alley Amber Lager and Klaverack Kream Ale.
It’s the food that will be the biggest draw here, of course. The raw bar is set up to serve up to six varieties of oysters at one time; the three available on the day of our visit were Blue Points from Long Island, Savage Blondes from Prince Edward Island and Oishis from Washington State. All were fresh, plump and delicious, the first two more noticeably briny. The Oishis, which are farmed in low-salinity conditions via the “tide tumbling” technique, were sweeter and had what the industry describes as a “lengthy cucumber finish.” It reminded me of the lingering, saliva-provoking aftertaste that happens when you’ve eaten an artichoke heart, making whatever you drink next taste sweeter.
We also enjoyed salty raw cherrystone clams, jumbo shrimp cocktail and a lightly marinated tuna poke. This selection of cold appetizers, with a big bowl of crispy rosemary and parmesan French fries on the side, proved an ample meal for two without even delving into the entrées menu. We’re saving the oysters Rockefeller, po’ boy sandwiches, lobster mac & cheese and seafood pot pie for future visits. The weekly fish specials also sound great: honey/chili-glazed salmon during opening week, followed this week by striped bass with pineapple/cranberry salsa. Vegans and folks who dislike seafood of any kind will find tasty options on the menu as well.
But getting back to that New England clam chowder… It was the best we’ve had in years, and we’re picky about our chowdah. Michelle Kelly makes it herself. The broth is rich but not overly pasty, flavored with thyme, parsley and crushed red pepper, and the balance of clam meat and potatoes is perfect. This soup will be calling the names of many a hiker at the end of a windy day of roaming the Gunks.
The Oyster and Clam Bar at the Bruynswick Inn is currently open from 3 to 9 p.m. Thursday through Monday, with lunch hours and Sunday brunches planned for the months to come. To make a reservation, call (845) 524-4757. For more information, visit www.theoysterandclamny.com.
Join the family! 
