No matter where you’re coming from, or where you’ve been, when you arrive the Hudson Valley, you’ve entered a scenic paradise.
Let’s start with New Paltz. There are the soft contours of the Shawangunk Mountains, anchored by Mohonk’s Skytop Tower—a century-old stone edifice perched on top of the ridge—with its turret pointing towards the heavens and its light shining like a beacon.
The flats that stretch out between the Wallkill River and the Shawangunk Ridge are like a red carpet walk of pastoral Oscar contenders. There are nominees from every season—the blankets of snow cascading like waves in the winter, the hope and promise churned into the tilled fields in the spring, the tiered rows of sunflowers dancing in the summer breeze, the rich undulation of gold-hued corn tassels lining the roads, and fall’s cornucopia of swollen orange pumpkins, butternut squash, and sleek green zucchini.
Meandering through these fertile farmlands is the River 2 Ridge trail—a two-mile, free-to-the-public pathway that rolls like a ribbon from the west end of the village into the thick of the cornfields, past the hay-barrels and up over the foothills dotted with red barns and old farmhouses. At the crest of the hill there is a sweeping view of the ridgeline, most of which has been protected by the efforts of conservationists over the decades.
Add to this visual feast the 100-year old Testimonial Gatehouse with its large semi-circle stone archway leading visitors to a half-mile long dirt road that is lined with massive, mature pin oaks in a French-designed alee. This most recent Preserve trailhead allows people to walk, hike, bike, horse-ride, run, skip or stroll as short or as far as their legs will take them.
Treasures within walking distance
On the east side of the river is Historic Huguenot Street, the oldest incorporated street in America, dotted with original stone houses dating back to the 17th and 18th Century as well as more recently unearthed portions of structures that were inhabited by indigenous peoples, most notably long houses of the Munsee Indians and a recreated teepee structure. A portion of the street is closed to traffic to ensure the integrity of the homes, making the area a pleasant place for a stroll.
Between the north-flowing Wallkill River and Historic Huguenot Street lies a treasure: the 500-acre Nyquist-Harcourt Bird Sanctuary, which has an oxbow, marshes, meadows, woodlands and wetlands all in the heart of the village. It’s home to hundreds of bird species, some of which are endangered, many of which are migratory and all of which sing, fly, soar, nest in a protected area that can be enjoyed by serious birders or those just out walking their dog or seeking a moment of peace to watch the bruised pink and purple sunset bleed over the ridge.
Nearby are the Gardens for Nutrition, one of the oldest, communal public gardens still in existence. Gardeners often add flags, totems, lawn chairs, fencing, holiday lights and other unique decorations to their patches of earth. Mulch, compost, water, deer-fencing and gardening equipment are provided. Even if you don’t rent a plot, it’s a great spot to take a walk or bike ride. You can see the gardens take shape over the year, providing their own individual flavor and personality and combining to form a larger, edible patchwork quilt.
One day in March near the beginning of the shutdown, a resident of New Paltz, originally from the Bronx, summed up well. “We get to live here,” he said. “As bad as things are, we get to step outside and see the stars. It’s like we get free admission every day to the greatest show on earth and all we have to do is step outside and open our eyes.”
Bearing fruit
For many, apples and the Hudson Valley are synonymous. Come autumn, we are lavished with every variety, both heirloom and hybrid, from tart McIntosh to sinfully sweet Honey Crisp. These apple farms spread their branches throughout the valley with their blossoms bursting in spring, visible from dirt roads, backroads, bypasses, main streets and all along the Thruway and Route 9 corridor. Residents can pick their own apples, a rite-of-passage for local kids, or stop by one of the region’s many farm markets.
Apple season in the valley begins in late summer and lasts until November—a stretch of time made even more exhilarating by the turning of the leaves—an autumnal ritual of nature that is like living inside of a silent fireworks show with a riot of reds, oranges, pinks, yellows and amber foliage fanning out and then falling softly to the ground. For those that live here, it’s something that never ceases to delight and amaze.
A river runs through it
Then there is the mighty Hudson itself, lined by historic sites like the Vanderbilt Mansion, the Roosevelt Estate, colleges steeped in ivy-clad tradition like Vassar and Bard and Culinary Institute of America. But there are also corridors here that are lesser known and equally enthralling like the rustic cabin at Slabsides in West Park—a retreat and meditative study of the famous naturalist, John Burroughs. This nature park is adjacent to Shaupeneak Ridge, a 936.5-acre nature preserve with lakes, running trails, a floating peat bog—one of a dozen parks and preserves along the Hudson River corridor that are entrusted to Scenic Hudson, a land preservation organization dedicated to connecting the public to the Historic River.
One of the greatest recent accomplishments in local recreation has been the successful effort to turn a fire-torn old railroad bridge over the Hudson and turn it into a pedestrian river crossing. This turned into what is now one of the most visited parks in all of New York, the mile-long Walkway Over the Hudson, which brings in more than half a million visitors each year and is a regular destination for many locals.
There are plenty of rock-climbing routes, technical mountain bike trails, challenging hikes that can take you deep into Catskills and beyond. But just by having the fortune of living in one of the greatest places on earth, we only have to open our eyes to find ourselves walking through a Hudson Valley River School painting, only we are the oil paint dancing along the river’s edge.